Roasted Chestnuts in Portugal: The First Real Sign Autumn Has Arrived - Castanhas Assadas.
There are plenty of ways to tell the seasons are changing in Portugal – cooler evenings, quiet beaches, rain finally returning after months of sun – but nothing signals autumn quite like the smell of roasted chestnuts drifting through a town square.
If you’ve lived here long enough, you’ll know exactly what I mean. One morning you step outside, catch that smoky, sweet scent in the air, and you think: Right. Autumn’s here.
The Tradition Runs Deep
Chestnuts have been part of Portuguese life for centuries. Before potatoes arrived in Europe, chestnuts were basically a staple crop here – roasted, boiled, mashed, even ground into flour. Today, they’ve become more of a seasonal treat, and that makes them feel even more special.
From late October through November, the country switches gear. Street vendors pop up everywhere: outside markets, by the seafront, near bus stops, tucked into narrow lanes. Each one has the same little metal drum, the same glowing coals, and the same handwritten sign: Castanhas Assadas.
It’s a simple ritual, but it hits home every year.
Why It Matters for Homeowners, Guests and Anyone New to the Region
If you own a property on the Silver Coast or you’re hosting guests, roasted chestnuts are an easy way to connect people to real Portuguese culture.
A few ideas that make a big difference:
Add fresh chestnuts in a welcome basket for autumn bookings
Recommend the best local vendor in town
Mention St. Martin’s Day events on your listing or blog
If you have a wood burner, leave simple roasting instructions – guests love this
It’s simple, cheap and incredibly seasonal.
The Sound, the Smell, the Paper Cone
Chestnuts aren’t just food – they’re atmosphere.
That crackle of the drum, the smoke curling upwards, the warmth hitting your hands through the rolled paper… it’s nostalgic, even if you didn’t grow up with it. They’re soft inside, slightly smoky, slightly sweet, and properly comforting.
You can walk through a Portuguese town in November and follow your nose straight to a vendor. And honestly? You should. You won’t regret it.
